No visa required for US citizens (as of November 2025) for a short tourist stay.
Get some cash out at an ATM in town as most places required cash, including paying for my hostel & local busses.
Download InDrive as that will work as your Uber. I also used it to get to/from the airport and it was very reasonable (way better than a taxi).
Learn how to take the louage’s (aka the local busses) as it’s dirt cheap & an efficient to get around. There’s a learning curve but that’s the fun of it!
It can be hard to find restaurants for dinner as most locals eat in at the family home for dinner. Be prepared that dinner might be more of a casual/fast food style spot (the Tunisia version of fast food not McDonald’s).
I felt very safe walking around.
Google Translate came in handy quite often.
The people were so kind so don’t hesitate to ask for help if you need it!
CITY: HAMMAM-SOUSSE
HOW LONG: 4 NIGHTS
ACCOMMODATION:
I stayed at the only “hostel” that was available on hostelworld. Dar Hkaiem is not actually a hostel as it only has private rooms but there’s a common area, shared kitchen & a shared bathroom. Luckily it’s only 4 rooms so there was never a line. The owner was very friendly & happy to help answer any questions. Also to note, it’s not in the main neighborhood of Sousse, but I am so glad I chose to stay here because it felt completely local. I didn’t see any other tourists in the area. I met a Dutch girl my first evening and Amber & I proceeded to spend every waking moment together onwards. She even extended her stay so we could keep adventuring together. It was awesome because she had been to Tunisia before so already knew how to take the louages, what food to try & where we should spend each day. Also the breakfast is SOOO good. Would highly recommend this homestay/hostel.
WHERE TO EAT:
Honestly just eat at any place you see locals eating. We tried a bunch of random spots whenever we were hungry, and they were all great. The food is delicious & even with the language barrier, we found that people would do their best to explain what was on the menu. There were lots of sandwich/wrap-like options.
WHAT TO DO:
We spent our three full days exploring four different destinations:
Our first morning the hostel owner took us on a free walking tour around Hamman-Sousse to the local market, mosque, hammams and told us about the history of the neighborhood. Would recommend doing this tour!
In the afternoon, we took a louage from the station outside the Medina in Sousse to a small sea side town called Hergla. We walked around, I took a million pictures & we played cards in a cute cafe.
Louages
On day two we spent the day meandering around the Medina in Sousse. I again took a million photos (Tunisia is an incredible place to take photos because it’s so colorful!), and we went to the market.
One day three we headed to the fourth Holiest city in Islam: Kairouan. It’s a gorgeous city with more than 40 mosques and it’s a Unesco World Heritage site.
One thing I didn’t do is a hammam, which I regret not doing. Definitely try to do one while here!
Overall Thoughts:
I was blown away by Tunisia (although I only went to a small portion of it!). It’s by far my favorite country in Africa so far. My favorite part was how kind the people were. Anytime people overheard me & Amber speaking English they would say hello & ask questions of us. They always offered to help, and one man even took us to get a cake & lemonade! People shared snacks on the long bus rides. Cafe owners chatted with us. I never felt wary of my safety (which I can’t say of Morocco & Egypt). The weather was sunny each sunny each day in November, although there was a cold snap while we were there. I can’t wait to go back to explore more of the country.
BUDGET FOR 4 DAYS IN TUNISIA:
I found Tunisia to be incredibly cheap! Food & transport around the region was so reasonable if you do it like the locals do. Also a private room for $17 per night is awesome.
Accommodation: $69 ($17 per night) – This was a private room!
Food: $46
Activities: $0
Local Transportation: $52
Miscellaneous: $1 (postcards)
Total: $168 (Daily average: $42)
Transportation to next destination: $166 (Flight to London & Flight to The Canary Islands)
No visa required for US citizens (as of Oct 2025) for a short tourist stay.
Get some cash out at an ATM in town as there were a few times I needed it, including paying for my hostel.
Download Yandex Go as that will work as your uber around town. I also used it to get to/from the airport and it was very reasonable.
I felt very safe walking around.
CITY: CHISINAU
HOW LONG: 5 NIGHTS
ACCOMMODATION:
I stayed at the best hostel in Chisinau, it’s even in the name: Hostel Amazing Ionika 🙂 When looking at reviews this is was the only highly rated hostel listed on hostelworld so it made the decision easy. It was great! I love this size of hostel: big enough to have a some potential new friends, but small enough to feel cozy and easy to meet people. Pretty immediately upon arrival, I met 6 other backpackers and we formed a little group for our week here. We explored during the day & had dinner together each night. Also, random side note, but it was the most incredibly traveled group I’d ever met. I think the average number of countries been to by the group was 80 countries, which is wild. One South African guy had been to 150 countries!!! Anyway, there was good wifi, a kitchen, curtains & personal plugs on the bed. One note: they only accept payment in cash. Overall it was a great stay & I’d recommend!
WHERE TO EAT:
Here are my fav restaurant spots:
La Șezatoare – Great, authentic local Moldovian food in a cool atmosphere. I tried plăcintă which is like a filled pie (I chose cheese stuffed!).
Little Napoli – Yummy pizza right around the corner from the hostel! It was so good & easy that we went twice.
There are two main day trips visitors to Moldova go on:
Transnitstria – officially the Pridnestrovian Moldavian Republic (PMR), is a self-proclaimed breakaway state that is internationally recognized as part of Moldova. It is a de facto independent territory that declared independence from Moldova in 1990 and has its own government, currency, and military. Transnistria is known for its unique Soviet-era atmosphere, with landmarks, infrastructure, and cultural elements from that era still present. I booked this tour through my hostel & it was excellent! We got to see lots of Soviet era monuments, buy local stamps, & see beautiful churches. We also had a meal at a Soviet Cantina. Of note, some countries list this location as Level 4: DO NOT TRAVEL, but we had no issues. You do need your passport as they see it as an international border. They won’t stamp, but instead give you a slip of paper that is required as you leave so don’t lose it. Pro tip: Don’t bring any cameras (only your phone).
Monasteries & Wine Cellars – Moldova has some of the largest wine cellars in the world as well as some beautiful monasteries. I had planned to do this until last minute some of the guys in my group decided they wanted to do an overnight in Ukraine, & I decided to join them. It was an incredibly eye-opening experience & I’m glad I went.
OVERALL THOUGHTS:
My time in Moldova ended up being quite the adventurous week! Between Moldova itself, visiting the autonomous region of Transnistria & my overnight in Ukraine all while hanging with some of my most traveled new friends, I had some of my memorable experiences. I will say that Moldova won’t go down as one of my favorite countries & I wouldn’t say you need to add this to the top of your bucket list. But overall I had a great week!
BUDGET FOR 5 DAYS IN MOLDOVA:
Accommodation: $119 ($24 per night) – this included double paying for accommodation one night (hotel in Ukraine + my hostel back in Chisinau)
Food: $108
Activities: $115
Local Transportation: $58
Miscellaneous: $35 (insurance for Ukraine + postcards/stamps)
Total: $435 (Daily average: $87)
Transportation to next destination: $200 (Flight to London + flight to Jersey)
My mom joined me for this little adventure so we stayed a cute, small airbnb right near old town. It had a loft with a queen bed + a pullout couch in the living room. It also had a washing machine which was awesome. It was very walkable to all the important parts of Nice & the main train station. Highly recommend!
WHERE TO EAT:
Nice – Try Casa Leya for dinner. Food was delicious and ambiance was lively. We also wanted to check out Comptoir du Marche but it was too busy when we showed up.
Monaco – We had lunch at Graziella. It’s tucked away in the Fontvieille neighborhood and it delivered. Delicious spinach salad & caprese salad! Not touristy at all, which was exactly what we were looking for.
WHAT TO DO:
So the main reason we went to Nice was to spend a day in Monaco. I am currently trying to visit the final few countries in Europe that I haven’t been to (like Monaco)! With our one full day here we got up and headed to Nice-Ville to catch a train to Monaco. We bought tickets day-of so no need to plan ahead. Trains run every 15 min or so.
Here were the highlights of our whirlwind visit to Monaco:
Fontvieille neighboord to check out the Princess Grace Rose Garden + quiet waterfront.
Walk up to the Prince’s Palace – the views from here are incredible!! The palace isn’t open year round, but just coming up to the top of this cliff/mountain for the views & charming streets is absolutely worth it. This was my favorite stop in Monaco.
You can’t come to Monaco without visiting the casinos! Step into the Casino de Monte-Carlo to see what all the hype is about.
We also spent two evenings walking around the old town in Nice & the waterfront!
OVERALL THOUGHTS:
Nice was a really pleasant city to visit! I can’t imagine how packed it is in the summer time, but in October the weather was still warm, but the streets weren’t overly full. Also Monaco for the day was great! The weather was perfect for walking around without breaking a sweat. Tons of beautiful views and buildings. Definitely a fun adventure!
Time. Is. Flying. I have now completed 2 years on the road! Since I track every dollar I spend while traveling, I thought it would be helpful to publish an updated report of how much this trip has cost me! See here for the original post of my 1 Year trip Cost Summary. Also if you are considering doing a big trip, check out my best tips for planning an epic adventure here.
Some considerations:
This is only for one person (me)
I travel fairly cheaply (mostly staying in hostels) & in general don’t have expensive taste in food or transportation, but I also am saying yes to any experiences that I want to say yes to & not staying in the cheapest hostel.
I am traveling fairly quickly so taking lots of flights + moving locations every 3-5 days usually. It’s much cheaper to travel slower.
I am not traveling in a super logical route. For example, while in Europe I went to England, then Northern Ireland, then France, then England, then Switzerland, then England, then Ireland… I was meeting up with different friends at different points so while it wasn’t logical, it made sense for what I was doing. Or how about when I flew to Australia in the middle of my 3 months in Central America for a wedding? This is definitely an area that one can make cheaper if they don’t travel in circles like I did haha
I am flying home to California quite often for Christmas, my 30th birthday, and for some weddings. Again this is driving up some inefficiencies.
I have spent both summers at home in CA (a total of about 5 months between the two summers). This has actually saved me some money as I don’t pay for accommodation while I am home (thanks Mom + Dad!)
Here’s the trip summary leaving in June 2023, covering 42 countries across all 7 continents:
6 months in Europe + Egypt – 19 countries
1 month Fiji & New Zealand with my family – 2 countries
3 months Southeast Asia + Japan – 6 countries
6 months Mexico + South America + Antarctica- 6 countries
1 month Australia + Vanuatu with my family – 2 countries
3.5 months in Central America – 7 countries
Here’s how many days I spent on each continent in my two years of travel:
In full transparency, my parents kindly paid for Fiji, NZ, Australia, & Japan since I was with them for those four countries (very, very lucky!!) so this analysis will cover roughly 21 months (as the aforementioned countries were essentially free). This does include any spend I had while in CA, which is usually cheaper than traveling as I have no accommodation costs while at home.
Also on this trip, I have tried to add what I spent in each country to its dedicated blog post so hopefully that’s helpful. For example: scroll to the bottom of this blog post to see how much I spent for 3 weeks in the Philippines!
One last caveat – I did not include my costs for going to Antarctica because I got a deal through Freestyle Adventure Travel & signed an agreement that I wouldn’t share what I spent. Check them out if you are ever interested in exploring the one of the coolest (pun intended) places I’ve been.
Here we go…
Total Spend: $66k USD
I feel pretty great about this number! I’m averaging about $3k per month while really enjoying life! I spent an average of $40k per year in my “regular” life while living in San Francisco, CA, so I’ve spent about 20% less by traveling to 42 countries – not bad!!
Spend by Segment
This shows a breakdown of the total spend by trip segment. Obviously Europe would be the highest since that was the longest segment of the trip so far. Pre-trip expenses include: clothes, Workaway membership, initial flights, & electronics. Health insurance for the duration of the trip was $170 per month ($2,040 for the year). Scuba diving really drove up costs in Central America.
Average Daily Spend by Region
This shows the daily cost by region, which makes it far easier to compare the costs agnostic of time spent in each spot. An interesting trend I’ve noticed is that I seem to scale what I’m comfortable spending on based on roughly a $100 per day budget. To be clear, I don’t do this consciously or intentionally as in I haven’t limited myself to $100 per day, but I do seem to naturally know that in more expensive countries, I have to be more simple in my spending, whereas in Southeast Asia, I go crazy with activities and still can’t spend as much as existing in Europe. Put another way, here’s the percent Activities made up of total spend by region:
Europe – 15%
Southeast Asia – 35%
South America – 18%
Oceania – 1%
Central America – 25%
California – 14%
Spend by Category
This is a breakdown of how much I spent by category. As expected, accommodation is my largest spend, but I am actually proud of myself for spending so much on activities! I can be pretty stingy with spend so I love that I have said yes to so many experiences on this trip. A lot of them ended up in my top 5 memories of the trip 🙂 You’ll find the breakdown for the trip overall, as well as by region.
Europe (6 months): $18.1k
Southeast Asia (2 months): $7.5k
South America & Mexico (4.5 months):
Central America (3.5 months):
Top 5 experiences of the trip so far:
Antarctica ($$$$$)
Riding Motorbikes through the Ha Giang Loop in Vietnam ($300)
Hiking Milford Track in New Zealand ($2,045)
Climbing Acatenango in Guatemala ($105)
Scuba Diving with Thresher Sharks in the Philippines ($88)
Top tips for traveling cheaper:
Stay in dorms in hostels – you might sacrifice a bit on quality of sleep but in general the cost savings + meeting so many cool people makes this a great resource for traveling on the cheap
You’ll notice I spent about $8k on eating out. If you are staying in airbnbs or hostels with kitchens (more common in Europe, NZ & Australia), buy groceries!
Travel slower. As I mentioned, you’ll save a lot on accommodation costs if you can book a month long airbnb than hotels/hostels for a few nights at a time. This also will bring down your transportation costs.
Fly less! Unfortunately I am doing a lot of flying. I’d be saving a ton of money if I was doing bus/train travel and if I was going slower, thus visiting less places.
Only take a carryon backpack. You’ll save on baggage fees every time you do have to fly.
Use credit card points to book flights.
Consider doing WOOFING or Workaway to save money in exchange for working a few hours a week (usually ~20).
Hope this was helpful!!! Wish me luck on my last chapter for the trip: Western Asia & Europe for 3 months 🙂
Sighnaghi – A charming hilltop town in Georgia’s wine country, known for its cobblestone streets and sweeping views of the Alazani Valley.
Tbilisi – The vibrant capital blending ancient history with modern culture along the banks of the Mtkvari River.
Stepantsminda – A gateway to the Caucasus Mountains, famed for its dramatic scenery and the iconic Gergeti Trinity Church.
Other cities to consider
Batumi – A lively Black Sea resort city with a mix of beaches, modern architecture, and subtropical charm.
Kutaisi – One of the world’s oldest cities, rich in UNESCO-listed monasteries and natural wonders nearby.
Mestia – A remote Svaneti mountain town, renowned for its medieval stone towers and alpine landscapes.
PRO TIPS:
Visit Wanderlush for the best resource in planning your Georgian adventure!
No visa needed for US citizens (as of Sept 2025). In fact, Georgia is known for being very visa friendly in that many nationalities don’t need them and you can stay in Georgia for a long time before needing one!
While you can pay for a lot of things with card (especially in more touristy areas), you will also need to have some cash for smaller vendors or for mrshtrukas for example.
Public busses around Tbilisi were super easy to navigate with google maps and just tapping your credit card on the machine reader on the bus.
There are some long journeys in Georgia as you get around so plan that into your trip.
You can book hotels/homestays as you go if you want flexibility. There was always plenty of availability even booking day of while I was here.
TRANSPORTATION:
Sighnaghi —> Tbilisi: Easy marshrutka ride from the bus station in Sighnaghi (just ask your accommodation to point you in the right direction but I’ll link it here too). It’s about a 2 hour journey.
Tbilisi —> Stepantsminda(also can be listed as Kazbegi): Head to Didube Bus terminal (see here for the exact location of the marshrutka). It’s a chaotic station, but if you ask anyone for Kazbegi, they should point you in the right direction. See here for a comprehensive write up on transport options between these two locations as well.
If you want you can ask the driver (would cost more) to make a few stops along the way.
Ananuri monastery along a gorgeous river/lake
Gudauri view point / Friendship monument
Stepantsminda —> Tbilisi: see above but in reverse. Marshrutkas leave from here.
FOOD TO TRY:
Khinkali – meat or cheese dumplings where you flip them upside down and hold them by their little nub. Try to eat them without the juice flowing out!
Adjarian khachapuri – the only non-circular Khachapuri. This one is in a boat shape with a raw egg + pad of butter they throw in right as it comes out of the oven. Then you mix it all together inside the bread boat so it all cooks. You eat it by ripping off pieces of the bread boat and then dip it into the cheese/egg mixture.
Mingrelian khachapuri- looks like pizza without red sauce. This version is HEAVY on the cheese so obvi I loved it, but it might be a bit much for most folks.
Shkmeruli – a delicious baked chicken dish cooked in a garlic/sour cream sauce.
Kebabs- They have delicious pork/beef combo kebabs.
I had lots of different soups here that were all yummy!
CITY: SIGHNAGHI
HOW LONG: 2 NIGHTS
ACCOMMODATION:
I stayed at one of the few hostels here (more of a homestay with one dorm room), and it was GREAT (except one thing, which I’ll mention at the end). Nato & Lado (both the name of the homestay & the name of the couple who runs it) are so unbelievably hospitable and kind. Every night they offered a free wine & chacha tasting (that they make themselves) and you can chat with them about their lives in Georgia. Unfortunately, in the middle of my first of two nights, I woke up to bed bugs again! Twice in two days in two different countries, that seems like a record haha. They were very kind about it and were very distressed about trying to resolve the issue (which is understandably difficult). They also moved me to a private room for my second night. It’s a bummer because I would absolutely recommend this place, except for the bed bug incident
WHERE TO EAT:
You must stop by Cafe Medea for her ice cream with wine. It’s divine, and I’m someone who doesn’t love wine. It’s more like sweet muddled berries but wow it’s delicious. Also the view is fabulous!
Have a lunch or dinner at The Golden Lion. The prices are reasonable and there are tons of local dishes to pick from. I tried the shkmeruli – so great! Make sure to get bread to soak up all the yummy sauce.
WHAT TO DO:
Spend an afternoon walking around town for beautiful picturesque views of the old town with its walls and towers surrounding it.
Our hostel arranged for a day trip around the region to see some wineries & a monastery. We visited:
Bodbe Monastery – near town & easy to visit. Unfortunately it was raining but we still made the best of it.
Kvareli Wine Cave- We had a wine tour but opted out of the wine tasting since we would do one at the next stop. Opened in 1962 with 15 tunnels (2 major tunnels at 1.5km & 13 connecting tunnels, almost in a ladder shape). They have 40,000 wine bottles in their reserve – eventually their goal is 1 million bottles in reserve. They make 70 varietals of wine & produce 10 million bottles a year
Corporation Kindzmarauli – This visit included a wine tour & tasting for 10 Lari. This is the oldest in the Kvareli region – 16th century. They produce 40 types of wine & 2.5 million bottles per year. They export to 22 countries & a total of 80% of their wine is exported. We learned that in Georgia there are 520 types of grapes.
Our last stop was a man-made lake, which was pretty but nothing to write home about.
OVERALL THOUGHTS:
Other than the bed bug incident, I really liked it. If I didn’t have to race to Armenia to meet up with my friend Sabrina, I likely would’ve stayed another night or two here just to soak up the views and maybe have another wine ice cream 🙂
CITY: TBILISI
HOW LONG: 10 NIGHTS
ACCOMMODATION:
I visited Tbilisi two separate times so the first time I stayed in a hostel (2 nights) and the second, longer visit I rented an apartment on airbnb (8 nights).
I stayed at Envoy Hostel in the old town. It’s walking distance to all the major sites and plenty of great restaurants. There are personal lights and plugs for each bed, as well as lockers. No curtains though. There are two common areas, one more traditional one with a kitchen and lots of seating to work, play cards, eat etc and then a rooftop bar where you can see the skyline and get a drink.
My airbnb for 8 days was very tiny, but perfectly adequate for what I needed. It was a little studio with twin beds in it, a washing machine, and AC. It was very affordable so I can’t really complain, but I would stay elsewhere if I was here with a friend. The location was the highlight – right in the middle of in the mix of Old Tbilisi.
WHERE TO EAT:
Head to Khinkali Pub to try a few different khinkalis in a swanky setting. It gets busy though!
Dila Georgia – cute small breakfast cafe. I tried the Georgian breakfast with a hard boiled egg, bread, cheese and honey. Yum!
Cafe Daphna was a great spot for your first meal in Tbilisi. You can order khinkali by the unit so you can try all the different flavors! I also got to try Lazuri Khachapuri for the first time here. It’s not too far from the center of the old town but far enough that it doesn’t feel touristy!
Khinkali Collection – I mean I really didn’t have a bad meal in Georgia. This was yet another great Georgian restaurant will all my favs: khinkali, khachapuri, and compote 🙂 I also had a khinkali dumpling soup which was great!
Café Stories – very cutely decorated brunch spot with delicious food offerings. Very Instagrammable! I tried a Khinkali that was made in a croissant – so fun! I also had the French toast, which was great! The service was fabulous and I’d happily return.
Brunch & Dine – little brunch restaurant (serves breakfast food until 5pm) tucked away in a quiet neighborhood. Colorfully decorated with an open kitchen. Lovely vibes with good food.
My Coffee Tbilisi – One of my favorite hot chocolate’s I’ve ever had! Tiny, cozy spot with comfy chairs to read a book with your coffee/hot chocolate in hand.
Try a chimney cake from Lumier’s. I’ve had a chimney cake before in Prague, but this was also delicious! This locally owned shop is popular so don’t be surprised to see a line out the door. It’s small but has tons of great options. Pro tip: before 6pm they have a mini chimney cake option if you just want to try it without fully committing 🙂 I had one filled with strawberries, vanilla cream and chocolate!
I loved Tbilisi and look forward to coming back in the future. It’s just so flippin’ pleasant. The architecture is charming, the food is stunning, the people kind, and I felt so safe. I really enjoyed my slow week here. I actually think I could happily live here.
CITY: STEPANTSMINDA/KAZBEGI
HOW LONG: 4 NIGHTS
ACCOMMODATION:
I couldn’t find any hostels in this tiny town (hello business opportunity!!) so I decided to splurge on a private room at a hotel. It was such a treat. The hotel was small but felt pretty new. It had great views of the mountains and a nice outdoor deck. Breakfast was available each morning downstairs (for a price). It’s about a 10 min walk to the very center of town, but very accessible & safe to walk around at night here. I would absolutely recommend this hotel (but there are plenty of great options here), just make sure to get a room with mountain views!
WHERE TO EAT:
Ratio Bakery – this place has delicious baked goods that are a great option to pick up for a quick breakfast before heading out for a hike!
Capra Breakfast & Coffee – This happened to be in my hotel, but this is a great option for a more sit down breakfast with a large buffet of delicious options.
Samani – This is a great dinner spot with all the classic delicious Georgian classics. I split a Adjarian khachapuri, khinkali and a Liter of Strawberry compote (local handmade fruit juice) with a Spanish couple I met on my bus ride from Armenia to Tbilisi, a few days prior. The restaurant had a nice vibe to it (whereas a lot of places in Stepantsminda were more basic in decor)
Dootsi – great for lunch or dinner. After our big hike to the Trinity Church, the three Slovenian gals I met on my bus here from Tbilisi & I headed here for a hearty lunch. As per usual we got some khinkali to share. It was my first time trying the cheese khinkali (normally I’ve order the meet one) and I really enjoyed it! This place has a big deck with stunning views of the Trinity church and MT Kazbek (as long as it’s clear).
Chek Shawarma – Really yummy, cheap shawarma spot. I ate here a couple times as a casual, quick meal. Would highly recommend!
WHAT TO DO:
The main thing to do here is hiking!
I hiked to Trinity Church (the most popular hike) with three Slovenian gals I met. It had stunning views of the whole valley. Ideally you go on a clear, sunny day for the best experience. It can get cold & windy at the top so bring some layers (I was here in Sept so maybe in July it’s fine).
We also hiked to this viewpoint which was stunning in the other direction. We saw lots of sheep & a small church.
OVERALL THOUGHTS:
Stepantsminda is lovely! It was slightly less developed than I expected given it’s such a popular destination, but that’s part of its charm. Just be aware that in off season there will likely be even less restaurant options. It’s a pretty casual town so half the time I’d walk into a restaurant and no one would be there. Eventually someone would show up, but pretty funny experience. The views are unreal and I would highly recommend spending 1-3 days here (longer if you want to do more hiking).
BUDGET FOR 16 DAYS IN GEORGIA:
Accommodation: $463 ($29 per night)
Food: $320
Activities: $15
Local Transportation: $51
Miscellaneous: $80 (massage)
Total: $929 (Daily average: $58)
Transportation to next destination: $265 (Two flights to Malta + bus to Armenia in the middle of Georgia)
Yerevan – the capital of Armenia. It’s a great place to base yourself as the country is small so it’s easy to do day trips from here.
PRO TIPS:
No visa required for US citizens (as of Sept 2025).
If you plan to visit Armenia & Azerbaijan, I’d heard rumors that you can run into trouble with the Azerbaijan border control if you have an Armenia stamp in your passport, so I chose to come here first. Maybe just do some research about order of countries to visit in this region 🙂 For context, there is no love lost between Armenia & Azerbaijan.
Credit card is accepted at most places so no real need for cash other than maybe small street vendors.
Download Yandex Go to get around (an uber equivalent). You can also get food delivered from this app.
TRANSPORTATION:
Sighnaghi –> Yerevan: I had to go to Tbilisi first unfortunately so I took a 2 hour bus there for 10 Lari ($3.70 usd). Then I had to take a local bus to the Avlabari metro station to buy a bus ticket to Yerevan. The bus to Yerevan was about 6 hours and cost about $21.
Yerevan –> Tbilisi: I reserved my seat ahead of time through their WhatsApp & just paid when I arrived, but you can also book your ticket on their website. Here is where the shuttle left from. It was a very long bus ride because the border took longer than normal and our driver got pulled over by the police for speeding (hahah just another day in the Caucasus region) and cost 8000AMD ($21).
CITY: YEREVAN
HOW LONG: 5 NIGHTS
ACCOMMODATION:
Because my childhood friend Sabrina spontaneously joined me for the Armenia adventure, we got to splurge on a hotel! We picked the Sunset Apart-hotel. It’s in a brand new building (like I’m not sure any other businesses are in the building yet), so it kinda looks wonky as you walk into the building, but once you are on the 16th floor it’s all good. The room is small but has everything you need. It’s very clean & high quality. The bathroom is lovely and there is a washing machine, which was such a treat! I think we did a total of 6 loads of laundry. The best part is the location. It’s highly walkable to any part of the center of Yerevan, which is the main things we wanted! I would definitely recommend this hotel if you are looking for a nice spot to base yourself at a very reasonable price.
Views from the hotel balconySabrina!
WHERE TO EAT:
Lavash Restaurant – cute restaurant in the center of town with yummy local dishes at a reasonable price. This was my favorite dinner spot in Yerevan!
Jermots Cafe – a great cafe for breakfast all day! We went twice we loved it so much. Tons of great breakfast options that range from more Armenian to more American.
Surf Coffee– a cute cafe that was great for a mid-day coffee or tea + working on a laptop or playing some monopoly deal
Lali Kitchen & Bar – fabulous, hip Georgian restaurant right by the Republic Square. Would highly recommend coming here for a dinner. We had Khinkali, a large twisted Georgian dumpling + Khachapuri, a traditional Georgian dish of cheese-filled bread, + Shkmeruli, a decadent chicken dish cooked in a garlic, sour cream sauce. YUM!
Dalan Art Gallery & Restaurant – cool restaurant serving authentic Armenian food in a gorgeous outdoor patio space filled with plants & art.
WHAT TO DO:
Do a walking tour on your first day. This was helpful for orienting us around town as well as learning a bit about the history of the country. We also met some cool people that we ended up grabbing dinner with.
There are many day tours to consider. We chose one to visit Garni, Geghard, Symphony of Stones & do some Lavash Baking. You can also choose to visit Lake Sevan.
Check out the Cascade Complex, a cascading series of stairs, landscaped gardens, fountains & sculptures.
Walk around the city center day or night. It’s gorgeous all times of day.
We decided to do one day trip to get out of the city, but also didn’t want spend ALLLL day in the car. We chose a 6 hour tour that visits the Temple of Garni, Geghard Monastery, and Azat Canyon. We also got to see local Armenian women making Lavash bread. It was a perfect half day trip!
OVERALL THOUGHTS:
Yerevan was delightful! I would’t say it was the best or prettiest or my favorite, but somehow I still really enjoyed it. I loved being in one place for 5 days, which allowed Sabrina & I to really catch up, and slowly explore the city. Learning about the history here was fascinating & felt important. Also the food continues to be top notch in this region!!!
BUDGET FOR 5 DAYS IN ARMENIA:
Accommodation: $213 ($42.60 per night)
Food: $110
Activities: $73
Local Transportation: $9
Miscellaneous: $45 (massage)
Total: $450 (Daily average: $90)
Transportation to next destination: $21 (Bus to Tbilisi, Georgia)
Baku – the capital of this small country. I LOVED it. Might be because I made a fun friend and we explored the city together, but I would be excited to come back here. Lots of sites to see and the old walled in city is lovely. Huge mix of old & new all along the Caspian Sea.
Sheki – old city along the Silk Road with beautiful old palaces. Felt more like a “real” Azeri city where normal people live their normal lives.
PRO TIPS:
E-visa was required for US citizens (as of Sept 2025). You can apply here & it cost $20 usd.
Download Bolt to use to get around the city. It’s their equivalent of Uber. I found that it works great & the rides were ridiculously cheap.
English was spoken enough in the old town, but don’t expect your Bolt drivers to speak it.
It’s muslim country so dress appropriately. I chose to cover my shoulders and knees as I walked around and felt like that was sufficient.
You must enter Azerbaijan via air, but can leave via land crossing.
If you plan to visit Armenia & Azerbaijan, I’d heard rumors that you can run into trouble with the Azerbaijan border control if you have an Armenia stamp in your passport, so I chose to come here first. Maybe just do some research about order of countries to visit in this region 🙂 For context, there is no love lost between Armenia & Azerbaijan.
Credit cards are fairly widely accepted in Baku, but less so in Sheki (or other parts of Azerbaijan) so I’d recommend taking some money out.
TRANSPORTATION:
Baku –> Sheki: I headed to the bus station & asked for a ticket to Sheki. It was ~$8usd & took about 6 hours. You can check the schedule or even book tickets ahead of time here.
Sheki–> Sighnaghi (Georgia): There are marshrutkas you can take but they only get you part way to the border, so instead I linked up with two other backpackers and we shared a taxi to the border of Georgia. He left us there and we walked across. Then I split a taxi with one of the backpackers from the border to Sighnaghi. Took about 4 hours door to door. The first taxi was 35 AZN in total (so my portion was $7. The second taxi was 50 GEL (so my portion was ~ $10). You can definitely do it cheaper, but I opted for convenience haha.
CITY: BAKU
HOW LONG: 4 NIGHTS
ACCOMMODATION:
I stayed at Friends Hostel. The hostel is very cheap, especially if you extend and pay the direct price. The owner is kind and doing his best but the hostel has some kinks to work out. The WiFi worked well. The location is fabulous- right next to Old Town (like a 3 min walk). There’s good lockers in the room with a key provided. It felt very safe! AC worked great- and it was so nice to have the remote in the room so we could control it! BUT when I arrived, it didn’t look like the room had been cleaned in a while. There was hair and dust everywhere on the floor. There was literally never toilet paper in the women’s bathroom which was a nightmare. I had to ask to restock it 5 times while I was there (4 nights). There’s no real area to meet other travelers. The vibe isn’t very backpackery – lots of groups of older travelers who don’t speak English (which is totally fine) but meant it was hard to meet people as they stuck to themselves. Online it said there was breakfast but I never saw it. Overall, I’d see if anywhere else tickles your fancy before picking this hostel, but it’s not the worst place I’ve stayed!
WHERE TO EAT:
The Art Club – hotel in the old city. Our favorite restaurant we went to, loved it so much we went back again. The servers were lovely & explained each dish to us. The food was divine & had all the classic Azeri dishes. Felt high end, authentic, but wasn’t crazy expensive. Would HIGHLY recommend a meal here (lunch or dinner).
Some dishes to try!
Gutab – a traditional dish in Azerbaijani and Turkmen cuisine made from thinly rolled dough that is filled with a variety of ingredients like cheese or meat
Shakh plov – a classic Azeri dish with rice, lamb meat, chestnut, fruits and onion
Dushbara soup – traditional Azerbaijani dish featuring very small, meat-filled dumplings cooked in a rich lamb, beef, or chicken broth, often flavored with turmeric and saffron, and served with a side of vinegar and garlic sauce and dried mint
Kurban Said – restaurant in the old town with lots of local, traditional food. We had lunch here, but it would be great for dinner as well.
Salam Baku – great for a rooftop drink in the open air but shaded from the sun
Qayana Restaurant – Fabulous breakfast spot with local Azeri food. So fun to try a typical breakfast from here. Lots of yummy egg, cheese & bread dishes. The yogurt is incredible too!
Book & Coffee – cute coffee shop to sit & read a book or get some work done.
WHAT TO DO:
Walking tour – as always this is a great way to get oriented in a new city, get a bit of the history, & potentially make some new friends! Don’t miss the Museum of Miniature Books. I met Julie on this tour and we spent the next 72 hours together exploring the city!!
HamamBath – unbelievable spa experience just outside downtown Baku (a cheap Bolt ride away). You are transported into a calm little world as you are beaten with a broom, scrubbed, massaged, and washed. Julie & I loved our experience here. Would highly recommend coming here. Just reach out to them on WhatsApp to make an appointment. We got a whole slew of treatments, which were all incredible in addition to utilizing the cold plunge, outdoor hot tub, sauna & steam room. From their brochure, here are the descriptions of what we got 🙂 This 4 hour experience only cost $160!!
Classic steam – Steaming with oak brooms, followed by a cold water treatment. The skillful hands of the bathhouse attendant will pass oak brooms over the entire surface of the body in one go, which will invigorate and enhance the healing effect.
Kisa(body scrub) – the procedure helps get rid of the dead cells using a special exfoliating glove. Eventually your skin will look fresh, and start breathing
Classic massage – 60 min massage
Foam massage – the combination of sauna steam & natural foam, which covers the body in a shroud, deeply cleanses, and relaxes it.
Cleopatra’s Recipe (blue clay) – the ancient recipe of the Egyptian queen’s everlasting youth & beauty will give elasticity to your skin
Visit the Heydar Mosque – a little ways away from Old City (take a cheap Bolt ride), but has stunning views of the city. The Mosque itself is huge and beautiful. I recommend coming at sunset for the gorgeous hues and then you’re treated to a gorgeous version of the mosque when it gets a lit up at night.
Just meander the streets of the old town! It’s so freaking charming.
Walk along the water front promenade. It’s lovely & so pleasant for people watching. Pro tip: go in the evening as it’s a bit cooler and the sunset makes it stunning.
OVERALL THOUGHTS:
Baku was great! As I mentioned, I would happily return here. Maybe Julie & I will have a reunion here one day 🙂 I truly had no idea what to expect but the city was so clean, felt so safe, and was so darn beautiful. I loved the mixture of Middle Eastern & European architecture & culture.
CITY: SHEKI
HOW LONG: 2 NIGHTS
ACCOMMODATION:
There was no GREAT option in Sheki unfortunately, but Central Hostel looked clean and central (lol), but there was no way to meet people outside the room and I got BED BUGS my second night. I then had to spend 3 hours in the middle of the night to go through all my stuff to make sure no ned bugs got into the bags. True nightmare!!! Since then, I have met other backpackers who said they got bed bugs here so avoid at all costs.
WHERE TO EAT:
I honestly didn’t find the food scene here to be spectacular, but the one place I’d recommend is Qazfaz. It’s unassuming with no real menu (at least that I was offered), but try the Piti and enjoy ☺️
WHAT TO DO:
Summer Palace / Sheki Xan Sarayi (Unesco) – built in 1797, this served as the summer palace for the Shaki khans. It has a stunning facade & is definitely the most visited place in Sheki. I just went outside, but I heard it was lovely and worth the visit to go inside.
Sheki Caravanserai (upper) – served as fortified inns for merchants, travelers, and their animals along the Silk Road.
The Sheki Khan Winter Palace – not as impressive as the summer palace, but still worth a visit. It’s free if you just go to the outside, and my advice is that paying to go inside is probably not worth it, but up to you!
Khan Mosque & Cemetery – Beautiful mosque, which is free to enter. It’s around the corner from the Winter Palace.
OVERALL THOUGHTS:
After the absolute high of Baku, Sheki was a slight disappointment that ended in disaster with the bed bugs. I’d still recommend visiting Sheki if you are headed to Georgia after Azerbaijan, but it wasn’t overall my favorite
BUDGET FOR 6 DAYS IN AZERBAIJAN:
Accommodation: $45 ($11.25 per night)
Food: $125
Activities: $148
Local Transportation: $42
Clothing: $32
Miscellaneous: $36 (massage)
Total: $428 (Daily average: $107)
Transportation to next destination: $17 (Shared taxi to Georgia)
Doha (3 nights) – I visited Doha as part of Qatar Airways layover program which allows you to extend your layover up to 4 nights. I decided to add 3 nights so I could spend 2 full days exploring my first country in the Middle East!
PRO TIPS:
I felt SO safe here. No issues walking around by myself day or night 🙂
Cash isn’t really necessary. Everywhere I went accepted my credit except a few street food vendors at the Souq Waqif market, which were cash only.
Double check if you need a visa before arriving. US citizens (when I went) did not need to get a visa ahead of time, but need to purchase a visa on arrival which cost about $20usd. I paid with card at Immigration. It was very smooth.
Think about the time of year you are visiting. I was here in September & it’s unbelievably hot & humid during the day, which made it difficult to spend the whole day exploring. Both days I headed back to the hotel from ~12-3pm because it was just too hot to do anything besides sit in the AC. I can only spend so much time at the indoor malls lol.
Ubers are very cheap & reliable. I never waited more than 3 min for one & my longest uber was 27 min and cost me $8.50.
English was pretty hit or miss, but it never really affected my experience.
CITY: DOHA
HOW LONG: 3 NIGHTS
ACCOMMODATION:
I booked my hotel as part of the Qatar Airways extended layover program so I had to pick from a list of hotels they offered. I chose the Central Inn Souq Waqif. It’s listed as a 4 Star hotel, and while it was a lovely stay, I am not sure I would call it luxurious to set expectations. However, it was perfectly pleasant in a great location to use as a base to explore Doha. I could walk to the Souq Waqif market & ubering from here was easy. The included breakfast buffet was extensive and delicious. The AC in the room was glorious & the water pressure in the shower was incredible. There is an indoor pool, gym, & spa as well. The front service folks were kind & helpful. I would recommend staying here unless you are looking for a more luxurious experience.
WHERE TO EAT:
At pretty much every stop you’ll make in Doha, you’ll find plenty of air-conditioned restaurants ready to feed you. They might be pricier as is typical when at a tourist destination, however you’ll never go hungry. It’s definitely easier to find Western food at these spots than local food, but menus will often have a mixture of both. I wouldn’t say I did a great job of finding quality food while I was here (but that’s usually not my focus haha).
I had some chicken schwarma at a restaurant at the Souq Waqif market. I just wandered around and found a spot. There are lots of stalls here but bring cash as they don’t take card. Sadly, I didn’t take cash out while here so I couldn’t stop at any of them.
I had a smoothie bowl at Harvest coffee at the west walk mall, a hip, swanky, small cafe.
The Breakfast Club at Qanat Quartier – classic brunch spot but expensive. To be fair the whole area is but just warning you. I love an all day breakfast spot so was happy to have (beef) bacon stuffed French toast at 5pm ☺️
At one of the malls I found a specialty date store which had tons of fun flavors of date stuffed or date covered desserts. I tried a coconut date ball, a peanut butter stuffed date, a raspberry jam stuffed date covered in dark chocolate, and a dark chocolate covered date stuffed with peanut butter! Delightful 🙂
WHAT TO DO:
I only had 2 days here so I tried to optimize for what I wanted to see but also knowing the heat would prevent me from doing too much. I balanced indoor & outdoor activities so I wouldn’t actually melt into the ground haha. There is a subway that is cheap and easy to use, but because I was only here for 2 days, I ended up ubering almost everywhere for efficiency. It helped that ubers were incredibly cheap.
Day 1
National Museum of Qatar – this was a highlight for me because it combined learning about the history of this tiny country with a stunning architectural building that was so fun to photograph! Would highly recommend coming here. Also this was mostly indoors so a break from the sun.
West Walk – this is an upscale outdoor mall with air-conditioning (even thought it’s outside!) I enjoyed this, but wouldn’t say it’s a must-do.
I scheduled myself a massage as another way to beat the heat. I am also trying to have a massage in as many countries as I can 🙂 I did come across a lot of massages places that seemed slightly suspect, but this place came highly recommended and is specifically for women – LOVE! They have a few locations. I had a 90 min massage for $35 so very reasonable (much better than $110 my hotel wanted for a 60 min massage).
Souq Waqif – a gorgeous old outdoor market with lots of vendors selling traditional clothing, fabric, food, and more. There are also plenty of full on restaurants. The architecture is beautiful and classic, unlike a lot of Doha which is modern, new and reflects a more Western style.
Day 2
Mina District – this port village is beautifully built with cobblestone streets, pastel buildings, cruise ships, and a big fish market. It draws inspiration from traditional Qatari architecture and coastal cities. I LOVED taking pictures here!!
Katara Cultural Village – this stop came highly recommended… and I didn’t love it. I just didn’t really understand what I was supposed to see. It was huge and outdoors (so to be fair I was very, very hot as I was walking around). There were a ton of restaurants, an outdoor theater, a beach, and a mosque, but it was all empty when I was there (maybe people are smarter than me & decided to stay indoors during the day haha). Overall I just couldn’t quite understand this place.
Qanat Quartier – This place was pretty cool. A new development on Pearl Island inspired by Venice, with picturesque canals, colorful buildings, and vibrant cafes. It was one of my other favorite stops for photos. I didn’t plan it this way, but I ended up here at sunset which was magical for lighting!
Vendôme Mall – this is the largest mall in Qatar & the architecture is French inspired. It’s GORGEOUS, but at the end of the day it’s still a mall, and malls aren’t overall that interesting to me. There is a cool lights/water show that happens hourly, which is a fun experience. I would say it’s definitely worth a visit since going to malls is kinda culturally what you do here, but no need to spend a ton of time here unless you love shopping! There were plenty of fun stores, including a lot of familiar US brands.
Other ideas to consider:
Villaggio Mall – Similar to the Venetian in Las Vegas where you feel like you are in Venice but you’re actually inside (in AC in a mall 🙂 )
Al Maha Island – Great views of the skyline in Doha + the famous Crescent Towers. Lots of restaurants & an amusement park. Lots of photo opportunities!
The Pearl – Qanat Quartier is actually on Pearl Island but there are other parts of the island you can walk around & enjoy.
Head out of Doha into the desert for a half day of sand surfing and ATVs. There are plenty of tour operators who offer this.
Take an evening Dhow boat cruise for sunset or dinner. A lovely way to see the skyline of Doha.
OVERALL THOUGHTS:
I was pleasantly surprised by my experience here. I felt so safe, it was easy to get around with uber, there was plenty to do, but I also didn’t feel rushed. Doha is a photographer’s dream as there is so much variety in what you see, plenty of color, and a fun juxtaposition of new & old. It’s also incredibly diverse. I actually felt like I interacted more with people from other countries who had immigrated than local Qatari people (I met folks from Pakistan, India, Saudi Arabi, Morocco, Tunisia, etc). I throughly enjoyed my experience, but I also don’t feel the need to rush back or wish I had spent a week here. Would definitely recommend spending a few days here if you are ever flying through and have the opportunity to extend your layover!
BUDGET FOR 3 DAYS IN QATAR:
Accommodation: $150 ($50 per night)
Food: $67
Activities: $0
Local Transportation: $67
Miscellaneous: $110 (clothes + massage)
Total: $394 (Daily average: $131)
Transportation to next destination: $100 (Flight to Baku)
Flores (4 nights) – Tiny, beautiful island in the middle of Lake Petén Itzá. People visit Tikal (large Mayan ruins) from here or you could choose to stay closer to Tikal itself.
Semuc Champey (4 nights) – Hidden deep in the Guatemalan jungle you’ll find turquoise, natural pools, caves, and waterfalls.
Antigua (4 nights) – The gorgeous colorful, colonial city surrounded by volcanos.
Acatenango Volcano (2 days/ 1 night adventure) – hike up the 1 or 2 volcanos (one of which is actively erupting!)
Lake Atitlan – a backpacker’s paradise. Take water taxis beautiful to 5+ towns surrounding the lake. Also a mecca for taking Spanish classes + staying with a local Mayan family.
TRANSPORTATION:
San Ignacio –> Flores: I took a shuttle that I booked through my hostel in San Ignacio. Very easy & no need to book ahead. Crossed into Guatemala via the land border, which was efficient & quick ($20 for the shuttle + $20 for the exit fee from Belize).
Flores –> Semuc Champey: I walked around Flores and asked a few agencies for their price to Semuc Champey as there are basically 4 shuttles that go and all the agencies just sell seats on those 4 shuttles. The agencies were much cheaper than the price offered at my hostel. I just chose the cheapest one 🙂 This journey is long & windy (~8hrs) so be prepared with snacks and medicine if needed. There were two bathroom breaks, including one at a McDonald’s so you could grab a bite to eat ($23 for the shuttle).
Semuc Champey –> Antigua: I just booked through my hostel since you aren’t really in a town with lots of options lol. It definitely would be cheaper if you booked elsewhere (perhaps online?). This was another long 8hr+ journey with some bathroom breaks ($30 for the shuttle).
Antigua –> Lake Atitlan: About a 2.5 hr journey that I arranged through my Spanish school at the Lake. It dropped me door to door. ($13 for the shuttle)
Lake Atitlan –> Guatemala City: Easy to find options via the many agencies in town (in San Pedro at least!). You can either take a car all the way from San Pedro or take a boat taxi to Panajachel and then get a shuttle from there. I find that the less connection points I have in a travel day the better so I opted for the former. ($25 for the shuttle)
PRO TIPS:
Don’t cut your time here short. There is SO MUCH to do here: climb active volcanos, swim in lakes, hike to turquoise spring-fed pools, explore caves by candlelight, learn Spanish, live with a local Mayan family, and marvel at incredible Mayan ruins. I stayed 24 nights but this included 10 days at a language school. I’d recommend a minimum of 2 weeks if you aren’t going to include a language class, but you could easily spend 3-4 weeks here and not run out of things to do!
I found booking on Booking.com to get the cheapest prices for hostels (even over booking direct, which was strange).
Bring a warm jacket! Antigua and Lake Atitlan are higher up in elevation & it can get chilly at night. It was basically the only place in Central America where I used my Patagonia puffer jacket (which I always travel with in case of cold airplanes or AC filled shuttles.
Be flexible if you plan to hike Acatenango as it can often get cancelled for a few days due to the fact that Fuego is an actively erupting volcano (and as such is unpredictable). If it’s super important to you, make sure to add a few buffer days in Antigua or the Lake so you can adjust timing if needed.
Spend a few days in Antigua before Acatenango to help you acclimatize to the elevation (it’s not that high up compared to the volcano hike, but it helps some).
Pack altitude sickness pills if you are prone to feeling bad at high elevation. You can also pick some up at a pharmacy in Antigua.
There is a rainy season and dry season here. Be sure to be aware which season you want to visit in. Additionally, be aware of where your backpack/luggage is placed on shuttles during rainy season to ensure they aren’t put up top without a rain cover!
CITY: FLORES
HOW LONG: 4 NIGHTS
ACCOMMODATION:
I stayed at Los Amigos Hostel. Flores is tiny so there’s not a ton of hostels, but there are a few to choose from. Los Amigos is the most popular, but also one of the more expensive ones. The rooms are nice and spacious with curtains & personal plugs. Definitely get a room with AC! It was social with lots of scheduled activities, including a day on their private boat on the lake. Location doesn’t really matter on the island because it’s so small, but it’s in the center of things. You can easily book activities & transport through the hostel (but it’s likely cheaper from an agency in town) 9/10 would stay here again.
WHERE TO EAT:
El Takaso – A great, local, cheap spot on an expensive, touristy island. I tried a “gringo” and it was delicious.
Maracuya – I went here multiple times for the smoothie bowls & the vibes. It’s beautifully decorated and has plenty of spots to chill & read with a smoothie in hand, especially in the afternoon once the sun isn’t directly hitting the chairs on the dock. Highly recommend!
Maple & Tocino – Wow – my dream restaurant. Huge all-day breakfast menu so you know I visited multiplied times. I loved the egg, bacon, waffles!
WHAT TO DO:
The main thing to do here is a (very long) day trip to Tikal! It’s one of the largest archaeological sites and urban centers of the pre-Columbian Maya civilization. There are multiple start time options for this long adventure. You can leave at ~2:30am for the sunrise tour (which costs a little extra since you enter before the park is officially open), 4:30am for the early bid (no extra cost), and then roughly every two hours after that. You can also opt for the sunset tour which leaves around 2:30pm if I remember correctly. Considerations: how much sleep you want to get, whether the sunrise/sunset will even be visible since it can often be cloudy/rainy, and how well do you handle the heat). The earlier you go, then less you die from the intense heat. I booked through my hostel so I could meet new backpacker friends, but it’s likely cheaper through an agency on the street.
I opted for the 4:30am start as I wanted to beat the heat, but also knew I’d be very sad to get up even earlier if the sunrise wasn’t guaranteed. It’s roughly a 12 hour day so be prepared to take a rest day the next day (or at least that’s my recommendation!). I slept in and booked myself a massage the next day as per usual. It was absolutely worth the long day though; I absolutely loved learning about the history of the ruins.
I also enjoyed taking a 30 min slow walk around the entire island! I didn’t go, but you can take a boat taxi to a rope swing and swimming spot.
OVERALL THOUGHTS:
Flores was darling! So charming and cute. I loved how small it was but that it still had so many adorable cafes – my dream! It’s the perfect combo of learning about the beautiful Mayan history & just chilling in a little town.
CITY: SEMUC CHAMPEY
HOW LONG: 4 NIGHTS
ACCOMMODATION:
One of my favorite hostels!!! Zephyr Lodge is a backpackers dream. Between the infinity pool, built in bunkbeds (book the 11 person dorm I promise it’s amazing & quiet), views of the valley in every direction (including the room), activities every night, you’ll never want to leave. I ended up extending twice for a total of 4 nights, & I happily could’ve stayed longer. I loved reading in the hammocks in the shade overlooking the pool. Because everyone is “stuck” at the hostel outside of the two main activities, it’s very easy to make a little community at the hostel.
WHERE TO EAT:
You are very isolated at the hostel (but thank god it’s exactly where I wanted to be!) so you eat every meal at the restaurant on site. Luckily the food is delicious & the portions were generous. They provide packed lunches for the day trips.
WHAT TO DO:
The highlight aka why people take two 8 hr shuttles to get here (8 hrs to Antigua and 8 hrs to Flores) is to see Semuc Champey, which is actually the name of the river (not the town; the town is Lanquin). The day trip includes exploring a cave by candlelight, swimming in some waterfalls, hiking up to the viewpoint to see the famous natural spring-fed pools.
The other thing to do is Tipsy Tubing, where you drink & float down the river. I opted out, but others said they had fun!
OVERALL THOUGHTS:
It’s obviously out of the way for most travelers, but I am really grateful I got to spend 4 days here. It was such nice relaxing stop in an incredibly beautiful place. If you are short on time, it makes sense to skip, but if you can pull it off, I think it’s worth the effort.
CITY: ANTIGUA
HOW LONG: 4 NIGHTS
ACCOMMODATION:
I stayed at two different hostels (3 nights before the volcano hike, 1 night after)
Maya Papaya – I really liked the location of this hotel and overall the facilities were really nice. Free breakfast was delicious! The two main cons (and why I booked elsewhere after the hike) was someone said there were bed bugs in a different room & the room only had one room fan rather than fans for each bed (this makes a huge difference). While Antigua is general cooler than other parts of Guatemala, a room with 8 people and one fan was still pretty warm. After the hike I knew I wanted to get a good night sleep so I switched hostels. They still let me keep my bigger backpack here when I went on the overnight volcano hike which was kind of them.
Barbara’s Boutique Hostel – A little further from the central downtown area but still very much walking distance. A very cute, cozy, slightly more upscale hostel. It was quieter, and seemed to attract a slightly older crowd. I slept well here! Also had a great free breakfast.
Maya PapayaBarbara’sBarbara’s
WHERE TO EAT:
Boheme Cafe – a great smoothie bowl in a plant filled rooftop.
El Bowl – I ate here a few times because I loved their build your own bowl options. They had smoothie bowl options as well as a more asian style bowl. It was great and very reasonably priced.
BohemeEl Bowl
WHAT TO DO:
Do a walking tour!
Meander the beautiful colonial streets. This city is a photographers dream
Walk up to Cerro De La Cruz for great views of the volcanos & Antigua.
After the hike you will surely need a massage. My massage at Volcano Spa was excellent! It was easy to arrange via whatsapp.
Visit the McDonald’s & Starbucks that don’t look like a typical McDonald’s & Starbucks
OVERALL THOUGHTS:
I loved Antigua – it was so colorful & gorgeous. I enjoyed just walking around the city with my camera. It felt so incredibly safe. The weather was a welcome reprieve to the sweltering heat of the rest of Guatemala. It was refreshing to need my jacket at night! I would love to come back & take some Spanish classes here.
CITY: ACATENANGO HIKE (w/ Lava Trails)
HOW LONG: 2 DAYS/ 1 NIGHT
ACCOMMODATION:
Base camp will vary by tour operator, but Lava Trails offers a great (but obviously basic) structure. It had huge windows with views of Fuego & the windows were double paned so it was quite warm inside the structure (one of my main concerns). There was an outhouse (although it wasn’t overly pleasant using it). In general, don’t expect much as these basecamps are constructed almost at the top of a volcano at high elevation so it’s hard to even get materials to the top. Pro Tip: definitely do your research on what the base camp looks like for the operator you choose to book through as some don’t offer views of Fuego from bed, like ours had.
WHERE TO EAT:
The tour operator will provide the basics for the meals while on the trip, but I would highly recommend bringing snacks (chips, trail mix, chocolate, etc) as you will likely want some extra fuel as you go. There are a few vendors selling drinks and snacks along the way but about half way up, there won’t be any more opportunities to buy anything.
The food wasn’t anything to rave about it, but it did its job. Chicken and rice for lunch, pasta for dinner, and oatmeal for breakfast. There were vegetarian options available.
WHAT TO DO:
HIKE HIKE HIKE. This was not an easy hike. You are walking for 5 hours straight up on Day 1. Day 2 was 90 min straight up to the summit for sunrise (we woke up at 3:30am). It’s an out & back hike (17km // 10 miles total) with 1,600m (5,250ft) of elevation gain. You can also add the option hike to the actively eruption Fuego. I heard mixed reviews on whether this was worth the energy & money so I decided to skip it (and have no regrets myself). If you struggle with altitude sickness, proceed with caution.
Here’s a comprehensive write up on what to expect 🙂
OVERALL THOUGHTS:
This hike was hard (especially since I am out of shape from backpacking & eating out for the past 2 years haha). I also didn’t really have the right gear with me. The outfitters tend to offer plenty of gear that’s included or for rent but doing it in my running shoes was brutal. I would highly recommend having your hiking boots for this hike. I had two toes completely bruised and lost a toenail because my toes rammed over and over again to the top of my shoe going downhill for 3 hours. Don’t forgot how cold it will be at night and in the morning, so take layers (I borrowed a ton from the tour company).
All that being said, the experience was fabulous! The views were insane and it was so special getting to witness the constant eruptions! A real highlight of my time in Central America!
CITY: LAKE ATITLAN (SAN PEDRO)
HOW LONG: 10 NIGHTS
ACCOMMODATION:
Through the Spanish school I attended, I stayed at a homestay with a local Mayan family. It was magical – the family was so, so wonderful! I had my own room with a private bathroom – such a treat! The house was large and about 8 family member lived there as well as 2 other students from my school. Meals were fun and lively as we would all eat together.
WHERE TO EAT:
3 meals per day were provided by the family during the week and then we were on our own on the weekend. This meant I didn’t eat out all that often but here were my favorites:
No Hay Deer – a very simple menu with a dang good burger.
Sababa Restaurant – Cute cafe to play cards or read your book. Good pastry selection!
Forbidden Fruit – Obviously I found the best spot for smoothie bowl in town 🙂
No Hay DeerForbidden FruitMy fav dessert: plantains!
WHAT TO DO:
There is tons to do around the lake!
Visit the many other towns via water taxi
Go swimming
Go paddle boarding or kayaking
Learn spanish from one of the many language schools in San Pedro (very common amongst backpackers)
Visit Casa del Mundo (or stay there) with a day pass and enjoy the wonderful grounds
I attended Guatemaya Spanish Academy & would highly recommend them. Prices were very reasonable & the classrooms had beautiful views of the lake. The classes are 1:1 and the school also offers plenty of fun afternoon activities for the students like salsa dancing classes, visiting a group of women who still practice traditional fabric making, and hikes through farms. They also take care in selecting the host families that they place students in.
Learning about how to make fabricAfternoon trip to San JuanAll my new friends from school!Two of the lovely teachers
I also did a day trip to Chichicastenago Market which is said to be the most colorful market in Central America and it lived up to the hype. I took a tour (really it was just transportation) as it’s not super close, but I felt like I had plenty of time at the market.
OVERALL THOUGHTS:
Lake Atitlan is stunning and I loved spending 10 days here. I already look forward to returning here, maybe for more Spanish classes!
BUDGET FOR 24 DAYS IN GUATEMALA:
I was pleasantly surprised by how affordable Guatemala felt given I had heard prices had climbed with tourism.
Accommodation: $490 (20$ per night) – this included 10 nights in a private room at a homestay
Food: $360
Activities: $622
Local Transportation: $107
Miscellaneous: $105
Total: $1,684 (Daily average: $70)
Transportation to next destination: $400 (Flight back to California)
Belize City (1 night) – not much happening here so only worth staying if you need for transit reasons.
Caye Caulker (4 nights)
San Ignacio (2 nights)
PRO TIPS:
USD are widely accepted so bring some to get you started. You’ll get change in Belize dollars when paying in USD.
Hostels can book out in Caye Caulker so you might want to book ahead.
There’s a $20usd ($40 Belize dollar) exit fee when you leave by land. When you leave by flight I believe it’s included in your airfare.
The ATM’s didn’t work for me on Caye Caulker so bring enough USD or get money out in Belize City.
Bella’s Backpackers puts on a Sunday Funday party if you want to schedule your stay to be there for it.
When entering/leaving Belize via the airport there is a customs form you need to fill out. To save time I filled it out online beforehand, but you can also fill out the physical form upon arrival.
CITY: CAYE CAULKER
HOW LONG: 4 NIGHTS
ACCOMMODATION:
I stayed at Blue Wave Guesthouse. It was a very basic room but it was a treat to have it to myself with a private bathroom. AC was a godsend and I slept well here. They spruced up the room everyday. WiFi worked well. Location was perfect and there were cute hammocks everywhere. You also got a 10% discount when diving with Blue Wave across the way. They provided a water jug during the reception hours where you could fill your water bottle. 7/10 would stay here again
WHERE TO EAT:
Ice and Beans Cafe – great for an early bagel or a yummy smoothie bowl. Nice comfy seating outside right on the water. The customer service was above and beyond (makes me think someone from the US runs it)
The Magic Cup – this place has my favorite smoothies on the island!
Paradaiso Cafe – had some great breakfast sandwiches here after diving
There was a pupusa stand right next the basketball court that made incredible, yummy, crispy pupusas! It was so cheap and delicious that I ate from there each night 🤣 On an expensive island, who can complain about $2.50 pupusas!
Ice & BeansIce & Beans
WHAT TO DO:
There are so many things to do on Caye Caulker
Do a snorkeling tour! You’ll see (hopefully) manatees, sharks, turtles and more! They often stop at a few different spots to get a chance to see all the beautiful marine life
Go scuba diving! So many dive spots, including a long expensive day to get to the Blue Hole. I opted out (I can always come back) but did dives at Turneffe North and Caye Chapel. Overall pretty lovely dives. We saw turtles, manatees, nurse sharks, drum fish, and lots of eels.
Feed the tarpons
Head to Iguana Reef to hang with the sting rays at sunset!
Drink and swim at the Lazy Lizard (where Caye Caulker was split into to islands in 1961’s Hurricane Hattie)
Enjoy a smoothie
Get a massage
OVERALL THOUGHTS:
I really liked it here and actually planned to spend one more day here (as I was really busy diving and snorkeling each day and could’ve used a chill day here) but I heard some friends I met in El Salvador were going to be in San Ignacio the next day so I change plans to overlap with them!
My favorite thing to do was just hang in the water with the sting rays. I fell in love with the creatures- just so sweet!
CITY: SAN IGNACIO
HOW LONG: 2 NIGHTS
ACCOMMODATION:
I booked where my friends had booked, which was Yellow Belly Hostel. The hostel itself was fabulous, except for the fact that it was a 15 min walk in extreme heat into town. Meant we were a bit isolated, but there were a few restaurants with free delivery so we utilized that! AC was available from 5:30pm-9am and WiFi worked well. Lots of bathrooms and all were clean. Free breakfast was a huge spread and included eggs 🙌🏻 8/10 would stay again.
WHERE TO EAT:
I only had a smoothie at Wild Roots, which was great! Otherwise I ate at the hostel 😀
WHAT TO DO:
The main thing to do is go to the ATM caves, which were fabulous! It’s a cave system where the Mayans used to performs human sacrifices to the water gods. It was a mixture of adventure and history, which was a cool combination. It was pretty steep ($130) but would HIGHLY recommend. Everyone who has gone has raved about it! I just booked through my hostel but there are plenty of vendors in town that will happily sell you a tour.
There are a few other parks you can check out in the area, but most backpackers come for 2 nights just to do the caves in between backpacking Guatemala and Belize
OVERALL THOUGHTS:
While San Ignacio itself isn’t super sparkly itself, the ATM caves make this place a must visit, but no need to spend a long time here.
BUDGET FOR 7 DAYS IN BELIZE:
If you are looking for a cheap holiday destination, Belize is not it haha. This is typically the most expensive stop along the Central America backpacker route. Once again, if you aren’t a diver, you’ll be able to do this much cheaper than me though.
Accommodation: $385 ($55 per night) – spent 4 nights in a private room in Caye Caulker since there weren’t any great hostel options and I wanted good sleep before all the early scuba diving I was doing.
The Pursuit Of Travel 